Hello everyone!
Well, Christmas is over, and New Year’s Eve is still to come
so…it’s kind of that awkward time of year where you aren’t celebrating
anything, but you aren’t working, so you’re just not really sure what you’re
supposed to do. The days seem to blend
together and are filled with random activities.
Well, those days in India are no exception. The past few days have been filled with lots
of driving. Lots of interesting meals,
and of course…a fort. Because we can’t
seem to get through a few days without touring one.
We left Jaisalmer for Bikaner on Dec. 26th. I was thinking of all my friends at home
doing some boxing day shopping, but I didn’t want to mention anything about
shopping in the car because I know Ramesh would’ve immediately taken us to an
antique store that has “very good prices”.
Usually, road trips with my family involve a lot of conversation,
laughter, and music. As a child when we
vacationed, each of us would have our discmans to get us through any long
drives. Unlike most families, however,
we didn’t just listen to music, we would each look out the window, lip syncing,
making music videos in our mind. I
legitimately remember having to take turns with my sister, Britt, for the
window seat for this very reason. We
would also lip sync songs to each other and try to have one another guess which
song we were listening to. Although I
could’ve asked my father and/or Ramesh to partake in those activities for our
6+ hour trips each day, I refrained.
Ramesh didn’t really seem like the music video making type and…he was
also pretty busy avoiding cows on the freeway.
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A typical pit stop for Dad is eating oranges/bananans on the side of the road |
As much as I was nervous about the boredom that would
inevitably accompany these long drives each day without any music, podcasts, or
audio books to listen to, it all worked out quite nicely. Dad and I managed to always have something to
talk about. I would look forward to our
conversations each day-mostly because they would cover a variety of topics
ranging from World War II history to current politics to dental hygiene to tax
planning (I mean, I am with my father after all). This is the best part of any
trip with anyone, in my opinion. It is a
treat to be one-on-one with someone, talking about anything and everything
without distraction.
When we arrived in Bikaner, we were pleasantly surprised to
see that we were staying in a hotel that was built in 1926 by the last prime minister of the former state of Bikaner, Rao Bahadur Shri. It is still owned by his
descendants and has been converted into a hotel. We ate dinner in the formal dining room and
enjoyed the Bed and Breakfast feel of the place. As soon as we arrived, they asked us what we
would like for dinner and had us look at the menu. We were confused because it was only 2:00 PM
and they didn’t serve dinner until 7:30.
However, they insisted we order then and they would call us when our
meal was ready…We thought this was an anomaly, but it happened at our hotel in
Mandawa as well. When we ask why we can't simply order when we go for dinner, the staff say that in
order for the meal to be prepared using fresh ingredients, they need that much
time. It is still strange to me, especially
because usually we get to the restaurant and they can’t remember what we have
ordered so they ask us again…and the whole process repeats itself. Anyway, the food was good. Unfortunately, the beds didn’t really come
with mattresses and there was a train that consistently honked its horn
throughout the night, so I didn’t have the greatest sleep but we had hot water
and the residence was quite lovely, so we were happy.
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Dinner in the dining room |
The following morning, we went to…wait for it…a fort. As much as it pains me to say this, it was
actually reasonably enjoyable. We were
able to use an audio guide which I found incredibly helpful in understanding
the history and importance of the sight.
There were some great exhibits and lots of information about the
maharajah that lived there which was great.
Unfortunately, I eventually had to leave because so many people were
asking me for photos. I mean, I love
getting my picture taken, let’s be honest.
But there IS such a thing as too much attention, even for me. It was a beautiful fort, however, and I am
glad I saw it (there, Dad, I admitted it).
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This was the Maharajah's bed. It was small and close to the ground so that he was easily able to stand up if someone tried to kill him in his sleep. Comforting. |
Afterwards, we came back to the hotel and I read my book in the
garden. Dad had a nap before he met
Ramesh again to go to a camel breeding farm.
My experience riding camels for 6 hours in Jaisalmer was enough camel
time for me, so I opted for a facial at the hotel.
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Rockin' those audio guides |
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I was in love with so many of the doors in the fort like this one! |
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A snaphot of Dad's adventure to the camel farm |
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A typical ad for an Ayurvedic Massage |
I have had two interesting spa experiences on this
trip. In Varanasi, I had a "Ayurvedic Massage". This was
pitched to me as a typical relaxation massage with the added bonus of special oils being poured on your temple from above your head, slowly, in order to relax you even more. In reality, it involved me laying naked on a
table while a girl aggressively spread cold oil on my body and then proceeded
to flip me over and pour the oil in my hair. Think of getting your hair washed at a hair salon, but instead of water and shampoo, it's oil. I had no idea what was happening and I started laughing at one point
because it was so random. I thought the
facial would be a safer choice this time.
It definitely wasn’t a North American facial, but it did feel nice to
have lotion rubbed on my face. The only
thing was, the lady went beyond my face and would rub my throat and upper chest. You don't realize how seldom it is to have your throat touched by someone until it is. She would rub quite aggressively and I gagged
a few times which was alarming for her. Despite my reaction, she didn't avoid the area and the gagging continued. Anyway, it was an experience!
That evening we ate dinner in the dining room and had to eat
with other guests staying there. I say
“had to” because I have learned from this trip that I basically hate
people. Maybe more than Dad. Well, I guess I don’t hate people, I just
hate talking to people. I know this is
hard for some of you to believe, but I truly detest small talk more than
anything. However, there we were with
four New Zealanders for dinner and my social skills kicked in and I basically
saved Dad from having to talk to them. ;)
The next day, we drove to Mandawa. On the way, Ramesh made a few stops. He often stops for us to take pictures of "interesting" wildlife on the side of the road.
Sometimes he will pull over to view a deer in the meadow. Obviously, deer aren't that exciting for me, so the last thing I want to do is dig in my backpack for the camera. But Dad, not wanting to
disappoint Ramesh often took out the camera and pretended to take a picture just so we could move on.
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Roadside picture of the antelope |
One of the stops on the way to Mandawa was a Haveli that had
been restored by a French artist who currently lives in Paris. A Haveli is a traditional town house or mansion that is covered with frescoes. The paintings on the outside and inside walls are made with natural dyes (from vegetables and flowers). However, the elements often result in wear and tear on the paintings, so they have to be restored. The Haveli that we visited first had been was in the restoration process (which is essentially a constant process because the colours fade so quickly). It was a
beautiful house and it was quite interesting to see artists working away at
restoring it. It was peaceful, eclectic,
and was full of Indian charm. I can
honestly say that it was what I pictured India to be like. The woman who was showing us around was
living there for three months and then would return to Paris in the New Year. She said she loved India. She also said she hadn’t really left the
house too many times. I feel like that makes a difference. Anyway, it was
really a lovely oasis in a small, somewhat disheveled town.
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Indoor courtyard |
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One of the art students working on the restoration |
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Close Up View of the Frescoes |
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Frescoes on the outside walls |
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Outdoor garden and pool (JEALOUS)! |
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Abandoned by Dad on the street |
When we arrived in Mandawa, we were met by a guide who was
excited to show us more Havelies. Of
course, before we left for our afternoon tour, we had to order our dinner for
the night. We then asked what time
dinner would be served. The manager,
named “Surrender” replied “Anytime between 6 and 7:00”. Perfect, we thought. “Great, we will be there at
6 because we are quite hungry”. His
response: “No, ma’am, you can only come at 7:00”. Ok then.
Our walking tour was pretty random. Mandawa is a town of about 25,000 so there is
not much to see. Our guide took us to a
few more Havelis but he consistently gave incorrect information about them
which was unfortunate. For example, he
told us that the frescoes on one dated back 150 years, but some of the paintings on the
building depicted airplanes which weren’t invented until 1905. He also told us that a shack in Mandawa costs
$300,000 CAD. So, all of the
inaccuracies took away from the “guided tour” experience…He also took us to a shop to see some local handicrafts, and even though Dad and I told him we didn't want to buy anything, he said "no, just to look. This is my Uncle's place". We were too tired to disagree and just went along with it. We'd been through it a million times. However, this was the first time that we showed up to the shop and nobody was there. Our guide wanted us to wait in the store while he called his Uncle. Our patience had reached its limits and we said we wanted to leave. You know, I understand that retail can be a tough industry, but I feel like it's common sense to make sure that if you're going to walk people to your Uncle's shop, he (or, rather, ANYBODY) should actually be there.
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Our guide insisted I take this picture of the Mandawa city centre. So you'd better enjoy it! |
That evening, we had dinner on the rooftop. We arrived at 7:00 (as directed), and
Surrender came out and asked us to order our food…again…Thirty minutes later, after everyone else in the restaurant had been served, he brought out one dish for me. This leads me to another idiosyncrasy of Indian dining that we have
encountered time and time again: the
full meal is never brought out at the same time. He brought out the chicken curry….then 20
min. later some rice…and then another 40 min later, he brings the naan
bread and the dal (because he forgot that we ordered it I guess). I feel like an annoyingly white, North
American venting about it online, but it’s so cold outside that if you don’t eat the food right
away, it gets cold. So then you're left to consume each dish by itself when it should be eaten together. It seems like a minute detail, but after a long day, I
just want to eat a hot meal. The constant confusion and lack of ability
to communicate with hotel staff can be exhausting. At breakfast, I asked for cold milk for the cereal (because they only had hot milk at the buffet), and the waiter brought out hot milk. When I asked for coffee, they brought tea. We asked for clean towels and they brought us toilet paper. It seems that the small inconveniences, day after day, piled on top of one another lead to some frustration on my end (clearly).
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On our way back to Delhi |
The following morning, we were up bright and early for our 7
hour drive to Delhi. With the city
traffic, it seemed like it took forever to get to our hotel. However, we made it and we are happy to have
reached our last hotel of the trip. We
have two more days in Delhi and then we will be heading home (with a day spent
in Hong Kong on the way). I will keep
you updated with one last post before I sign off FOREVER...
(at least for this
trip)!
Hope you all have a great New Year’s Eve!
A