An Indian Road Trip

Hello everyone!

Well, Christmas is over, and New Year’s Eve is still to come so…it’s kind of that awkward time of year where you aren’t celebrating anything, but you aren’t working, so you’re just not really sure what you’re supposed to do.  The days seem to blend together and are filled with random activities.  Well, those days in India are no exception.  The past few days have been filled with lots of driving.  Lots of interesting meals, and of course…a fort.  Because we can’t seem to get through a few days without touring one.

We left Jaisalmer for Bikaner on Dec. 26^th.  I was thinking of all my friends at home doing some boxing day shopping, but I didn’t want to mention anything about shopping in the car because I know Ramesh would’ve immediately taken us to an antique store that has “very good prices”.  Usually, road trips with my family involve a lot of conversation, laughter, and music.  As a child when we vacationed, each of us would have our discmans to get us through any long drives.  Unlike most families, however, we didn’t just listen to music, we would each look out the window, lip syncing, making music videos in our mind.  I legitimately remember having to take turns with my sister, Britt, for the window seat for this very reason.  We would also lip sync songs to each other and try to have one another guess which song we were listening to.  Although I could’ve asked my father and/or Ramesh to partake in those activities for our 6+ hour trips each day, I refrained.   Ramesh didn’t really seem like the music video making type and…he was also pretty busy avoiding cows on the freeway.

A typical pit stop for Dad is eating oranges/bananans on the side of the road

As much as I was nervous about the boredom that would inevitably accompany these long drives each day without any music, podcasts, or audio books to listen to, it all worked out quite nicely.  Dad and I managed to always have something to talk about.  I would look forward to our conversations each day-mostly because they would cover a variety of topics ranging from World War II history to current politics to dental hygiene to tax planning (I mean, I am with my father after all). This is the best part of any trip with anyone, in my opinion.  It is a treat to be one-on-one with someone, talking about anything and everything without distraction.

When we arrived in Bikaner, we were pleasantly surprised to see that we were staying in a hotel that was built in 1926 by the last prime minister of the former state of Bikaner, Rao Bahadur Shri.  It is still owned by his descendants and has been converted into a hotel.  We ate dinner in the formal dining room and enjoyed the Bed and Breakfast feel of the place.  As soon as we arrived, they asked us what we would like for dinner and had us look at the menu.  We were confused because it was only 2:00 PM and they didn’t serve dinner until 7:30.  However, they insisted we order then and they would call us when our meal was ready…We thought this was an anomaly, but it happened at our hotel in Mandawa as well.  When we ask why we can't simply order when we go for dinner, the staff say that in order for the meal to be prepared using fresh ingredients, they need that much time.  It is still strange to me, especially because usually we get to the restaurant and they can’t remember what we have ordered so they ask us again…and the whole process repeats itself.  Anyway, the food was good.  Unfortunately, the beds didn’t really come with mattresses and there was a train that consistently honked its horn throughout the night, so I didn’t have the greatest sleep but we had hot water and the residence was quite lovely, so we were happy.

Dinner in the dining room

The following morning, we went to…wait for it…a fort.  As much as it pains me to say this, it was actually reasonably enjoyable.  We were able to use an audio guide which I found incredibly helpful in understanding the history and importance of the sight.  There were some great exhibits and lots of information about the maharajah that lived there which was great.  Unfortunately, I eventually had to leave because so many people were asking me for photos.  I mean, I love getting my picture taken, let’s be honest.  But there IS such a thing as too much attention, even for me.  It was a beautiful fort, however, and I am glad I saw it (there, Dad, I admitted it).

This was the Maharajah's bed.  It was small and close to the ground so that he was easily able to stand up if someone tried to kill him in his sleep.  Comforting.

Afterwards, we came back to the hotel and I read my book in the garden.  Dad had a nap before he met Ramesh again to go to a camel breeding farm.  My experience riding camels for 6 hours in Jaisalmer was enough camel time for me, so I opted for a facial at the hotel.

Rockin' those audio guides

I was in love with so many of the doors in the fort like this one!

A snaphot of Dad's adventure to the camel farm

A typical ad for an Ayurvedic Massage

I have had two interesting spa experiences on this trip.  In Varanasi, I had a "Ayurvedic Massage".  This was pitched to me as a typical relaxation massage with the added bonus of special oils being poured on your temple from above your head, slowly, in order to relax you even more.  In reality, it involved me laying naked on a table while a girl aggressively spread cold oil on my body and then proceeded to flip me over and pour the oil in my hair.  Think of getting your hair washed at a hair salon, but instead of water and shampoo, it's oil. I had no idea what was happening and I started laughing at one point because it was so random.  I thought the facial would be a safer choice this time.  It definitely wasn’t a North American facial, but it did feel nice to have lotion rubbed on my face.  The only thing was, the lady went beyond my face and would rub my throat and upper chest.  You don't realize how seldom it is to have your throat touched by someone until it is.  She would rub quite aggressively and I gagged a few times which was alarming for her.  Despite my reaction, she didn't avoid the area and the gagging continued.  Anyway, it was an experience!

That evening we ate dinner in the dining room and had to eat with other guests staying there.  I say “had to” because I have learned from this trip that I basically hate people.  Maybe more than Dad.  Well, I guess I don’t hate people, I just hate talking to people.  I know this is hard for some of you to believe, but I truly detest small talk more than anything.  However, there we were with four New Zealanders for dinner and my social skills kicked in and I basically saved Dad from having to talk to them. ;)

The next day, we drove to Mandawa.  On the way, Ramesh made a few stops.  He often stops for us to take pictures of "interesting" wildlife on the side of the road.  Sometimes he will pull over to view a deer in the meadow.  Obviously, deer aren't that exciting for me, so the last thing I want to do is dig in my backpack for the camera.  But Dad, not wanting to disappoint Ramesh often took out the camera and pretended to take a picture just so we could move on.

Roadside picture of the antelope

One of the stops on the way to Mandawa was a Haveli that had been restored by a French artist who currently lives in Paris.  A Haveli is a traditional town house or mansion that is covered with frescoes.  The paintings on the outside and inside walls are made with natural dyes (from vegetables and flowers).  However, the elements often result in wear and tear on the paintings, so they have to be restored.  The Haveli that we visited first had been was in the restoration process (which is essentially a constant process because the colours fade so quickly).  It was a beautiful house and it was quite interesting to see artists working away at restoring it.  It was peaceful, eclectic, and was full of Indian charm.  I can honestly say that it was what I pictured India to be like.  The woman who was showing us around was living there for three months and then would return to Paris in the New Year.  She said she loved India.  She also said she hadn’t really left the house too many times.  I feel like that makes a difference.  Anyway, it was really a lovely oasis in a small, somewhat disheveled town.

Indoor courtyard

One of the art students working on the restoration

Close Up View of the Frescoes

Frescoes on the outside walls

Outdoor garden and pool (JEALOUS)!

Abandoned by Dad on the street

When we arrived in Mandawa, we were met by a guide who was excited to show us more Havelies.  Of course, before we left for our afternoon tour, we had to order our dinner for the night.  We then asked what time dinner would be served.  The manager, named “Surrender” replied “Anytime between 6 and 7:00”.  Perfect, we thought. “Great, we will be there at 6 because we are quite hungry”.  His response: “No, ma’am, you can only come at 7:00”.  Ok then.

Our walking tour was pretty random.  Mandawa is a town of about 25,000 so there is not much to see.  Our guide took us to a few more Havelis but he consistently gave incorrect information about them which was unfortunate.  For example, he told us that the frescoes on one dated back 150 years, but some of the paintings on the building depicted airplanes which weren’t invented until 1905.  He also told us that a shack in Mandawa costs $300,000 CAD.  So, all of the inaccuracies took away from the “guided tour” experience…He also took us to a shop to see some local handicrafts, and even though Dad and I told him we didn't want to buy anything, he said "no, just to look.  This is my Uncle's place".  We were too tired to disagree and just went along with it.  We'd been through it a million times.  However, this was the first time that we showed up to the shop and nobody was there.  Our guide wanted us to wait in the store while he called his Uncle.   Our patience had reached its limits and we said we wanted to leave.  You know, I understand that retail can be a tough industry, but I feel like it's common sense to make sure that if you're going to walk people to your Uncle's shop, he (or, rather, ANYBODY) should actually be there.

Our guide insisted I take this picture of the Mandawa city centre.  So you'd better enjoy it!

That evening, we had dinner on the rooftop.  We arrived at 7:00 (as directed), and Surrender came out and asked us to order our food…again…Thirty minutes later, after everyone else in the restaurant had been served, he brought out one dish for me.  This leads me to another idiosyncrasy of Indian dining that we have encountered time and time again: the full meal is never brought out at the same time.  He brought out the chicken curry….then 20 min. later some rice…and then another 40 min later, he brings the naan bread and the dal (because he forgot that we ordered it I guess).  I feel like an annoyingly white, North American venting about it online, but it’s so cold outside that if you don’t eat the food right away, it gets cold.  So then you're left to consume each dish by itself when it should be eaten together.  It seems like a minute detail, but after a long day, I just want to eat a hot meal.   The constant confusion and lack of ability to communicate with hotel staff can be exhausting.  At breakfast,  I asked for cold milk for the cereal (because they only had hot milk at the buffet), and the waiter brought out hot milk.  When I asked for coffee, they brought tea.  We asked for clean towels and they brought us toilet paper.  It seems that the small inconveniences, day after day, piled on top of one another lead to some frustration on my end (clearly).  

On our way back to Delhi

The following morning, we were up bright and early for our 7 hour drive to Delhi.  With the city traffic, it seemed like it took forever to get to our hotel.  However, we made it and we are happy to have reached our last hotel of the trip.  We have two more days in Delhi and then we will be heading home (with a day spent in Hong Kong on the way).  I will keep you updated with one last post before I sign off FOREVER...

(at least for this trip)!

Hope you all have a great New Year’s Eve!

A